{"id":1623,"date":"2012-12-31T01:08:27","date_gmt":"2012-12-31T09:08:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/?p=1623"},"modified":"2012-12-31T01:08:27","modified_gmt":"2012-12-31T09:08:27","slug":"many-obstacles-overcome-still-more-to-go","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/?p=1623","title":{"rendered":"Many obstacles overcome, still more to go."},"content":{"rendered":"

About a month ago I posted a list of stuck-points on the project<\/a>\u00a0– fortunately since then, with a lot of effort and tool purchases, progress has been made!\u00a0 Have put more time into the car this past month, than in any month so far.\u00a0 First, an update on each of the old sticking points-<\/p>\n

Power steering leakage<\/strong><\/p>\n

New pump was purchased and super-carefully installed.\u00a0 All lines cinched up, and no leaks after a couple weeks, yay!\u00a0 Still have to see how it holds up under the pressure of real use with the pump cranking away, but so far so good.<\/p>\n

Brake line fitting leakage<\/strong><\/p>\n

This was due to an incorrect flex line in the rear – correct part ordered and installed, and the brakes were bled, no leaks!\u00a0 My brake bleeding assistant, who’s never driven a manual car, had some trouble with my instructions to “push the pedal in the middle” – since the throttle pedal was sunken to the floor, the clutch appeared in the middle of the e-brake, clutch, and brake pedals.\u00a0 I’m going from corner to corner, wondering why fluid is barely eking out as I hear her pumping away!\u00a0 \ud83d\ude42\u00a0 A little revised instruction and it’s good to go.<\/p>\n

Still had some air after a couple passes, at which point I realized the\u00a0multi-piston Wilwoods need to be bled at the top of both caliper halves (inner and outer) to get all the air out.\u00a0 Last few bubbles gone and the brake pedal feels very firm inside.<\/p>\n

Leaf Springs<\/strong><\/p>\n

This was a rather labor intensive\u00a0process.\u00a0 In typical easier-said-than-done fashion they were cut down\u00a02.25″ in length; bushings were trimmed or\u00a0hogged out to\u00a0fit appropriate sleeves for mount bolts; the\u00a0front spring\u00a0eyes were flipped and ground for clearance; initially the rears were flipped also but it looked like clearance would be an even bigger problem, so they were left upright, but still got some grinding.<\/p>\n

\"Rear<\/a><\/p>\n

This has an ultra-scientific “one to two finger gap” in the rear.\u00a0 Added about 65 lbs. of fuel (more on that later) which only brought it down about 1\/8″.\u00a0 Only weight left to go in is the headliner and door glass, so this is where it’ll be for now.\u00a0 It’s not likely this spring rate will be the one I wish to keep forever, so for the next pair of springs, it should be easy enough to request an additional ride height decrease, in addition to the spring length decrease.\u00a0 Bushing work will swap over.<\/p>\n

Oh, and in the picture above, the rear wheel has 3\/4″ of spacer.\u00a0 There’s room to go inboard or outboard bit if needed, but this provided a more athletic appearing stance, while still providing for tons of wheelwell clearance in all directions.\u00a0 At this setting rear track width is 70.75″, which still, isn’t *that* wide.\u00a0 It’s about 4″ wider than my 240sx was, and about 7″ narrower than the Viper.<\/p>\n

Road Draft Tube<\/strong><\/p>\n

Have to thank my buddy John Coffey for talking me through this one.\u00a0 Tried several different things and took a long time with this, and ultimately found a solution.\u00a0 This item was holding up permanent installation for\u00a0a lot of\u00a0simple things in the engine bay, so once it was out of the way a lots fell quickly into place\u00a0– carburetor, fuel lines, distributor, throttle and choke linkages, etc.\u00a0 The tube coming off the road draft vent hole is the black one fuzzily visible in the passenger side carb photo below-<\/p>\n

\"carb-passenger_side\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"carb-driver_side\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

You may note, the stock-style valve covers.\u00a0 These are actually the third set of valve covers I have for this thing – the first set didn’t fit the bolt pattern (they’re for an even older small block) and the second set were a bit bigger and made of thicker material.\u00a0 They *look* nice and original, but caused all kinds of interference problems with things like the fuel line and the bracket for the power brake booster vacuum line, visible above.\u00a0 While in general I’m not a fan of extra chrome, these are at least very lightweight, and totally stock.<\/p>\n

\u00a0Coolant Temp Sensor Port<\/strong><\/p>\n

This problem begat a bevy of tool purchases.\u00a0 After nothing could convince the old plug to come out, began drilling with ever-larger holes.\u00a0 The largest thing I had on hand for going through metal was 3\/8″ (bits and chucks), so it was time for some upgraded hardware.\u00a0 Now have a new 1\/2″ chuck drill, and an array of drill bits up to 1″ in size.<\/p>\n

Also bought a 1\/2″ NPT tap to repair the threads, and a special 45\/64″ bit as the final pass before using the tap.\u00a0 After using the 45\/64″ bit, all that was left of the plug was like foil and I could pull it out with needle-nose pliers.<\/p>\n

\"Coolant<\/a><\/p>\n

Hooray!\u00a0 Coolant temp sensor in its appropriate location!<\/p>\n

Also visible in this pic, is the new oil pressure sensor.\u00a0 This is a 1\/8″ NPT sensor occupying a small port in the block previously filled with a small square plug.\u00a0 This too necessitated some tool purchases since it was a 7mm square plug, so none of my 6-point sockets would fit it, and the only way to fit a wrench on it, would be to pull off the water pump; no thanks.\u00a0 Ended up buying one of these universal socket <\/a>things, advertised to work on 1\/4″ – 3\/4″ bolt heads of all shapes and sizes.\u00a0 After some monkeying, it got a grip on the thing and got it out.\u00a0 The tool earned its keep in that one action!<\/p>\n

Perhaps apparent from the way the wires for the oil pressure sensor have been run, am making a big effort to keep the wiring tidy and professional in the car.\u00a0 Bought a ton of heat shrink tubing and overlay sheathing, in an attempt to keep everything clean, bundled, and protected.<\/p>\n

\u00a0Vent Windows<\/strong><\/p>\n

No progress on here from last time.\u00a0 The passenger vent window is just about ready to go in, been focused on what’s needed to get it running.<\/p>\n

New Progress<\/h2>\n

Lots of other progress has been made in addition to getting the above accomplished.<\/p>\n

First Fuel Purchase<\/strong><\/p>\n

One of the simpler ones – the fuel line installation was completed, so it made sense to get some gas.\u00a0 We happen to have a very neat retro gas station just a few miles from the house, that sells all sorts of good gas right at the pump, and comes complete with a smiling young man offering to clean your windows or check your oil.\u00a0 It’s mostly frequented by the well-to-do’ers of RSF, topping off their Range Rovers and exotic sports cars.\u00a0 I felt out of place with\u00a0two crummy 5 gallon plastic jugs in the pickup, but the Camaro will look right at home there.<\/p>\n

\"First<\/a><\/p>\n

Oh, and this is the only station I’ve bought gas in, in the last 10 years, where you don’t have to pre-pay.\u00a0 Got a lucky click-off of the pump, no coins!\u00a0 Hopefully a sign of good ProSolo reaction times to come.\u00a0 \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

Windshield Wipers<\/strong><\/p>\n

This is another that seems like a no-brainer…which of course wasn’t.<\/p>\n

Had the body shop install the wiper motor and attach to the wiper arms at the body shop, as doing so requires having the cowl panel off, and installation or removal of a body panel, is a big opportunity to scratch up the paint on said panel.<\/p>\n

Unfortunately the wiper arms were not “clocked” to the motor correctly, causing the wiper blade to want to swing down initially, instead of up.\u00a0 So off came the cowl panel, some time spent futzing with the mechanism orientation, but ultimately, the wipers made it in, and I managed to get the cowl back on without messing anything up too badly.<\/p>\n

\"Windshield<\/a><\/p>\n

The car had no wipers when I got it, now it has working ones, ha!<\/p>\n

Pedals and Header-back Exhaust<\/strong><\/p>\n

The\u00a0car has four functional pedals at last!\u00a0 Well, the gas pedal may not make it go yet, but it does open the throttle, now that the road draft tube shenanigans were handled.<\/p>\n

\"All<\/a><\/p>\n

Brakes were made ok with\u00a0the bleeding a little while back, and the clutch was okay, as the\u00a0pressure plate provides most of the springing, but the complementary clutch return spring that keeps the pedal up against the stop, has\u00a0also been installed.<\/p>\n

The parking brake pedal was the last to be made functional.\u00a0 The Wilwood rear disc brake setup on the car has a complete functional parking brake, but comes without a means of adapting it to the factory cable system.\u00a0 Fortunately the solution was pretty simple, with a pair of Lokar “Explorer style” clevises, drilled out to accept the factory parking brake cable.\u00a0 The entire parking brake system is not entirely new, from the rubber of the pedal pad, to the drum lining at each rear wheel.<\/p>\n

\"Magnaflow<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Parking<\/a><\/p>\n

As you can tell from the second picture, at this point, the exhaust ends at the mufflers.\u00a0 When I get the car to an exhaust shop, will have to see what can be done to extend the exit either to the traditional location, or out the sides.\u00a0 The panhard rod in the rear suspension complicates things.<\/p>\n

Ride Heights<\/strong><\/p>\n

They still aren’t right.\u00a0 Rear is too high, as discussed above.\u00a0 I’ve raised the front “2 turns” (haven’t done the math to figure how that equates to inches), but it probably needs to come up more.<\/p>\n

This picture was taken a few days ago, before fuel and coolant were added, so both front and rear have since come down a little bit.<\/p>\n

\"Jason<\/a><\/p>\n

You’d think moving the car around a garage floor on dollies like this would be easy – nope, big effort required!<\/p>\n

Before trying to drive it anywhere, I’ll probably raise the front another 2 turns.<\/p>\n

The Vintage mags with 27+” tall tires will fill the wheelwells better than the Jongbloeds and AD08 rubber.\u00a0 The shorter \/35 series front tire vs. the \/40 series on the rear, exaggerates the ride height difference.<\/p>\n

No problem turning to full lock, even at this ride height-<\/p>\n

\"Jason<\/a><\/p>\n

Pic inside of the front suspension with the wheel turned- contact point at extreme bump, is the lower control arm to the factory bump stop bracket, welded on the frame.\u00a0 At this ride height, it has about 1.25-1.5″ of travel there, equating to about 2″ of travel out at the tire.<\/p>\n

\"Front<\/a><\/p>\n

Oh, and a funny one-<\/p>\n

The family car had to go in for service (Infiniti is paranoid after the Toyota\/Lexus unintended acceleration debacle, and is issuing recalls on the new JX35 like crazy.\u00a0 The car needed 5 recalls done, which necessitated an overnight stay) – and since they were busy and out of branded loaners, we got a crummy rental – the Chevy Sonic.\u00a0 The Sonic is one of these economical small cars – not micro like the Smart or Scion IQ, but subcompact like the Toyota Yaris, Mazda 2, or Honda Fit.\u00a0 When my Tundra was serviced I got a Yaris SE loaner, which was actually decent, but this Sonic LT was crap!\u00a0 Anyway, it got to park next to the Camaro one night.<\/p>\n

What amazed me was how TALL the Sonic is!\u00a0 Check out this picture-<\/p>\n

\"Overall<\/a><\/p>\n

It only looks a few inches taller than the Camaro…until we see the Camaro is sitting on 5″ tall dollies!\u00a0 Will have to measure the Camaro once it’s back on the ground, but I’m pretty sure its roofline is around 48″, the Sonic (and lots of other cars like it) have rooflines about 60″.\u00a0 Wow.<\/p>\n

Battery<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ok, so I put it in the trunk, not very exciting.\u00a0 This is an Odyessy PC680, common in the aftermarket.\u00a0 It’s 13-14lbs., vs the 35+ of the stock battery, hanging way out past the nose.\u00a0 Here’s it’s mounted fairly high, but more or less at the rear axle centerline.<\/p>\n

\"Battery<\/a><\/p>\n

Have more thoughts on general battery placement, will have to share another time.<\/p>\n

This battery was bought to get the car going (figuratively, not literally) – since in the beginning it is likely to get cranked a lot without much chance to charge normally, and this should stand up ok to that use.\u00a0 The *real* battery I plan on using is the C680 XS Power battery, which is only about 4 lbs., and is the same form factor as the PC680, meaning it will fit in that mount.<\/p>\n

\u00a0Interior<\/strong><\/p>\n

The insides of the car received some attention, mostly in the instrumentation area.<\/p>\n

Steering was a bit out of whack, had to purchase a puller to get it all apart and re-clocked correctly, but it could at least be buttoned up-<\/p>\n

\"Interior<\/a><\/p>\n

The wrap will come off soon!\u00a0 Still getting my hands dirty doing stuff, just not as bad as before.<\/p>\n

Note the cover plate over the center of the dash – bare as a no-option car can be.<\/p>\n

Couple other things to see – the switch at bottom left, and of course the DASH2 dash.\u00a0 The switch will be an independent control of power for the DL1 and DASH2.\u00a0 The idea is, I can keep it on, to help let the DL1 keep GPS lock between runs, or any other time I want to have the engine off but instrumentation on.\u00a0 Modern cars tend to have as their key positions, Off -> Accessory -> Ignition -> Run.\u00a0 This car has Off -> Accessory + Ignition -> Run.\u00a0 Want to be able to keep some of the electronics going, without all of it going.<\/p>\n

Speaking of the DL1, it got its own custom bracket, just below the dash, to the right of the steering column.<\/p>\n

\"Race-Technology<\/a><\/p>\n

That silly bracket took a ton of time to measure and bend up, and I’m still not totally happy with how it ended up, as I had to change its position slightly to avoid having to use a serial extender between the DASH2 and the DL1.<\/p>\n

With this configuration, the DL1 will be recording information from sensors (like coolant temp, RPM, and\u00a0oil pressure) in addition to the things it can figure out on its own – speed and accelerations – and present this data to the DASH2, as configured, over an RS232 serial connection.\u00a0 This is handy, because you can’t really look at gauges while autocrossing.\u00a0 You might have a chance to look at the tach when doing an initial 1-2 shift, but that’s about it really.\u00a0 On the track you can take a glance for a second or so while on a straightaway, to ensure systems are still healthy, possibly even changing your approach if you see oil temps climbing, or something like that.\u00a0 In autocross you go out and hope the car makes it through the run without self-destructing.\u00a0 If you are having momentary drops of oil pressure, there’s no way you’ll see it, without some kind of alarm light programmed in, but that can be tricky, since 20psi might be OK at idle but death at 6k RPM.\u00a0 With the data acquisition, you’re watching the gauges 100 times per second, and if there are any concerning fluctuations, they can be correlated to other events, like hard right-handers following a braking zone, for instance.<\/p>\n

\"Race-Technology<\/a><\/p>\n

In this photo it isn’t yet talking to the DL1, so it only knows to output fuel level, which it will get from the main vehicle harness, and will not be datalogged.\u00a0 Common Camaro Lore dictates one most always autocross a first or second gen Camaro with a completely full gas tank.\u00a0 I’m hoping that’s not actually the case, will find out soon enough.<\/p>\n

The DASH2 is mounted to the steering column via a custom bracket I made.\u00a0 When I envisioned the bracket, it had to be carbon fiber, and making it so, took extra time.\u00a0 In trying to get\u00a0a photo of it tonight, I now realize now silly that probably was, you can only really see it when looking down through the windshield.\u00a0 Here it is, from roughly the middle of the car up against the windshield, looking back and left-<\/p>\n

\"Carbon<\/a><\/p>\n

Even if the aesthetics aren’t perfect, pretty happy with how it turned out functionally.\u00a0 The size and positioning of the bracket and DASH2 unit, allow the wheel its full range of tilt adjustment, without bind or interference.\u00a0 Here it is fully tilted up-<\/p>\n

\"Custom<\/a><\/p>\n

With the steering wheel in a normal position, eye level is slightly above the unit, which is supposed to be optimal for its viewing.<\/p>\n

Race-Technology was very supportive in sending me out a loaner so I could get the car fired up, while they send my bricked unit back to the UK for repairs.\u00a0 Thanks Al Seim and R-T USA!<\/p>\n

Belts<\/strong><\/p>\n

Not very exciting, was able to get a good length PS belt on the second try, looks like I’ll need a third attempt to get an alternator\/fan belt of the right length, this one is a bit too long-<\/p>\n

\"Alternator\/fan<\/a><\/p>\n

Looks like I may need to spend some time shimming the PS and water pump pulleys to get perfect alignment.\u00a0 Like so many things, you think belts will be a 5 minute deal, and it turns into hours… \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

###<\/p>\n

The plan for the moment is to get it running, and solid enough to not fall apart or puke its fluids out everywhere on a short drive.\u00a0 Want to make sure it builds oil pressure by free-cranking it with the plugs out, before they go in and I try to fire it.\u00a0 It *should* be fine as it ran great on the engine dyno, but that was over 2 years ago, and it has since received a new oil pan.<\/p>\n

It’ll need to go to an interior shop to get the headliner put in (it’s a least a 2-person, if not 3-person job on these cars), then to an exhaust shop (have some tweaks to the Magnaflow system I need\/want), and to ProParts USA <\/a>for some shocks.\u00a0 I want to have the car ready for the San Diego National Tour, which is a short three months away!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

About a month ago I posted a list of stuck-points on the project\u00a0– fortunately since then, with a lot of effort and tool purchases, progress has been made!\u00a0 Have put more time into the car this past month, than in any month so far.\u00a0 First, an update on each of the old sticking points- Power […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[19,13,20,1,18,10],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1623"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1623"}],"version-history":[{"count":28,"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1623\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1674,"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1623\/revisions\/1674"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1623"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1623"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1623"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}