{"id":1461,"date":"2012-09-23T23:01:44","date_gmt":"2012-09-24T06:01:44","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/?p=1461"},"modified":"2012-09-23T23:01:44","modified_gmt":"2012-09-24T06:01:44","slug":"playing-with-the-front-suspension","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/?p=1461","title":{"rendered":"Playing with the front suspension"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>While I should have spent the day doing something awful like bending fuel lines or polishing up ancient vent window trim,\u00a0instead spent\u00a0it looking at the front suspension.<\/p>\n<p>The car is now sitting on the suspension, with jackstands under the front control arms and rear axle.\u00a0 Trying to get the bushings and springs to settle a bit, and get an idea of how much they&#8217;ll compress under the car&#8217;s weight.<\/p>\n<p>Front spring perches are at a height placing the car where I believe its static ride height will be once it&#8217;s on the ground.\u00a0 It has about 1.5&#8243; until the control arm hits the frame, which out at the tire is over 2&#8243; of bump travel.\u00a0 Should be plenty to handle what&#8217;s out there, assuming there aren&#8217;t any big tire rub issues that pop up first.<\/p>\n<p>I put the driver&#8217;s side together with the camber (rear) portion of the adjustable upper control arms fully shortened, maximizing negative camber.\u00a0 The factory upper control arm had an effective length of ~9.5&#8243;.\u00a0 The SPC arms I&#8217;m using, when\u00a0fully shortened, have an effective length of ~8.5&#8243;.<\/p>\n<p>With offset bushings in the lower control arms, the SPC arm fully shortened, and the car at what I believe will be its static ride height, the front suspension showed only 2.5 degrees of negative camber!\u00a0 That might sound like a lot for those accustomed to primarily street cars, where anything more than -1 is oddball.\u00a0 But for a racer, -2.5 in front is just about the minimum on anything &#8211; it might just barely be enough if you have fantastic camber curves, no body roll, and tires that are accommodating of modest camber settings.\u00a0 But everybody else at the autocross uses more if they can get it, and in the case of\u00a0catastrophically bad\u00a0geometry and lots of weight on a floppy 265 street tire, I will need tons more.<\/p>\n<p>Good news is there are a couple options.\u00a0 The factory describes using shims at the upper control arm mounting point, to add camber and\/or caster.\u00a0 I have a bunch of 1\/8&#8243; shims on hand, but then decided to make my own out of aluminum stock:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/09\/UCA_Shims.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1462\" title=\"UCA_Shims\" src=\"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/09\/UCA_Shims-182x300.jpg\" alt=\"UCA shims on Jason Rhoades 1967 Z28 Camaro\" width=\"182\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/09\/UCA_Shims-182x300.jpg 182w, http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/09\/UCA_Shims-623x1024.jpg 623w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 182px) 100vw, 182px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The silver material is 1\/2&#8243; thick, the darker stuff, 1\/4&#8243;.\u00a0 3\/4&#8243; is about as far as you can safely go with the factory UCA fasteners.<\/p>\n<p>In building the shims and measuring how they affected camber, I found that for each 1\/8&#8243; of shim, the car would gain about 1\/2 a degree of negative camber.\u00a0 Those values should be handy for any of the guys running stock-height spindles and factory pickup points.<\/p>\n<p>So together those two shims added 6\/8ths, or 3 degrees negative, taking it to a static 5.5 degrees negative camber.<\/p>\n<p>That number sounds really too far out there, and I certainly hope to find that&#8217;s the case.\u00a0 At this ride height, the outer pivot point of the upper control arm appears parallel, or perhaps just slightly above, the inner pivot point.\u00a0 This is a good thing, meaning the UCA will be pulling the top of the spindle &#8220;in&#8221;, in a manner that should produce favorable negative camber gain.\u00a0 However the lower control arm is definitely\u00a0past parallel, with the lower ball joint a little bit above the inner pivot point.\u00a0 This means the suspension is also pulling in the lower part of the spindle, a camber-robbing direction.<\/p>\n<p>One helpful element, is the lower control arm is effectively ~16&#8243; long, whereas our SPC full-short arm is only ~8.5&#8243;.\u00a0 The smaller radius of the upper arm should product lateral (inward) movement more quickly compared to the lower arm, hopefully passing it somepoint soon, and generating some negative camber gain.\u00a0 One could do something like the <a title=\"David Pozzi describes the Guldstrand Mod for the first-gen Camaro\" href=\"http:\/\/www.pozziracing.com\/first_gen_suspension_geome.htm\" target=\"_blank\">Guldstrand Mod<\/a>\u00a0&#8211; it lowers the mounting point for the upper control arm, putting it in a steeper part of its travel, generating more camber gain.\u00a0 Unfortunately relocating pickup points is not only illegal in ST, it&#8217;s illegal in most forms of motorsport &#8211; at least those that don&#8217;t also allow for a complete tube frame chassis.<\/p>\n<p>Since the upper control arm is in a beneficial part of its travel at this ride height (which I believe is just about on the bump stop in a stock car) &#8211; there may be a better way than shims.\u00a0 What if\u00a0one could shorter the upper arm even more?<\/p>\n<p>The turnbuckle for camber adjustment on the SPC arm is 4&#8243; long as delievered from the supplier.\u00a0 SPC does not appear to make a shorter turnbuckle-<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/09\/SPC_turnbuckle_orig.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1464\" title=\"SPC_turnbuckle_orig\" src=\"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/09\/SPC_turnbuckle_orig-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/09\/SPC_turnbuckle_orig-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/09\/SPC_turnbuckle_orig-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>So I made one, by cutting down each end of the turnbuckle by 1\/2&#8243;, and cutting down the threaded inserts by an equivalent amount.\u00a0 The result-<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/09\/SPC_turnbuckle_modified.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1465\" title=\"SPC_turnbuckle_modified\" src=\"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/09\/SPC_turnbuckle_modified-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/09\/SPC_turnbuckle_modified-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/09\/SPC_turnbuckle_modified-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>With the turnbuckle now 3&#8243; in length, the upper control arm can be shortened to 7.5&#8243; in length, less than half the length of the lower control arm.\u00a0 Here it is on the car:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/09\/spc_shortened.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1466\" title=\"spc_shortened\" src=\"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/09\/spc_shortened-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/09\/spc_shortened-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/09\/spc_shortened-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>No clearance issues anywhere I could see, fits fine even at full short.\u00a0 An added benefit I was noticing with the negative camber, is the lower ball joint appeared to sit at a more natural angle.\u00a0 The lower control arm has a bit of a tilt to it, and with the stock upper control arm at this ride height, the car would normally have its camber about eight degrees more positive than this, equating to an extra eight degree of tilt to an already outward-tilted ball joint.<\/p>\n<p>Still, not sure I will need this much.\u00a0 Won&#8217;t know for sure until some testing and tuning is done.\u00a0 I ran about -4.5 degrees on my strut-suspended 240sx, but it had a very compromised suspension at the ride heights I used, only losing camber in bump.\u00a0 I&#8217;ll have to do some more measurements with the springs out, but there&#8217;s a chance with this upper arm, the car is at least not losing any camber.<\/p>\n<p>As stated elsewhere in this blog, I&#8217;m a big believer in providing yourself with a wide range of adjustability.\u00a0 You don&#8217;t ever want to be at the extreme of any of your self-defined adjustment ranges, for what if &#8220;more&#8221; in a given tuning direction, was better?\u00a0 In this case with no shims and the upper arms full short, the car has a &#8221;<br \/>\n&#8220;natural&#8221;\u00a0negative camber setting of over six degrees (which I have seen people use on tracked\u00a0E36 BMW race cars).\u00a0 By lengthening the upper arm,\u00a0camber could be brought to zero, and with shims, could go even further negative, to up past 10 degrees, which I couldn&#8217;t ever see needing.\u00a0 There&#8217;s also the possibility, if the short arm length causes issues, where it could be lengthened, in concert with shims, to maintain the same static value, but change the dynamic geometry to something less aggressive in camber gain.<\/p>\n<p>Hopefully this is enough to begin to tame the Camaro&#8217;s front suspension demons!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>While I should have spent the day doing something awful like bending fuel lines or polishing up ancient vent window trim,\u00a0instead spent\u00a0it looking at the front suspension. The car is now sitting on the suspension, with jackstands under the front control arms and rear axle.\u00a0 Trying to get the bushings and springs to settle a [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[10],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1461"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1461"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1461\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1474,"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1461\/revisions\/1474"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1461"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1461"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.rhoadescamaro.com\/build\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1461"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}